The beret: a headwear for men, women or both?

Here's an accessory that knows no borders! The beret, this little round and flat textile marvel, crosses the centuries while completely ignoring gender conventions. Hard to believe that a simple piece of wool could spark so much debate about who can wear it... and yet. Discover the origin of the Basque beret.

This quintessentially French emblem has long oscillated between masculine and feminine, according to fashions and eras. Sometimes a shepherd's accessory, sometimes a Parisian artist's cap, sometimes a military symbol, the beret has this fascinating particularity of adapting to all styles without ever losing its soul.

So, really? Men's, women's, or both? History has some surprises in store for us about this little hat that has seen it all.

At the origins: a headwear without gender distinction

The utilitarian roots of the beret

Let's go back in time to the Pyrenean valleys of the Middle Ages. Up there, in the mountains of Béarn, shepherds certainly didn't ask themselves whether their headwear was "gendered". Rain, icy wind and mountain sun don't mess around. Protection was needed, period.

These first berets, knitted in local wool and felted by village women, served primarily as textile armor against meteorological whims. It didn't matter whether it was Marie or Jean watching the sheep: both wore the same round hat. Efficiency took precedence over aesthetics, and even more so over gender considerations.

This purely functional origin perhaps explains why the beret has retained this unique ability to transcend dress codes. When an accessory is born from necessity rather than fashion, it develops a kind of immunity against social conventions.

Progressive adoption by different social groups

The beret didn't stay confined to pastures for long. Craftsmen, peasants, workers... all ended up adopting this practical headwear that didn't fly away at the first gust of wind. In families, berets were passed down from generation to generation. The eldest daughter sometimes inherited her grandfather's, the youngest son his aunt's.

This family transmission already blurred the lines. How could an accessory be exclusively masculine or feminine when it passes from one head to another without distinction? The beret then served as a social marker rather than a gendered marker. Wearing a beret meant showing one's belonging to the working world, to simple and authentic people.

This period of innocence would not last forever. Times change, and with them, symbols.

Military influence: toward temporary masculinization

Appropriation by the French army

Everything shifts in the 19th century when the French army sets its sights on the beret. Official adoption in military uniform radically transforms the perception of this accessory. Overnight, the beret becomes a symbol of courage, discipline, virility.

Each regiment develops its own color codes: blood red for paratroopers, dark green for the Foreign Legion, black for armored units. This chromatic palette draws a masculine cartography of honor and sacrifice. The beret no longer just protects from the elements: it protects the soldier's identity, his belonging to an elite corps.

This militarization of the beret marks a decisive turning point. For the first time in its history, this headwear takes on an exclusively masculine symbolism. And this symbolism will weigh heavily on its civilian perception.

Impact on civilian perception

The beret-virility association doesn't remain confined to barracks. It spills over into civilian society, influencing bourgeois men's fashion of the time. Wearing a beret means displaying one's proximity to military values: patriotism, bravery, sense of duty.

Direct consequence? Women begin to abandon the beret. Not completely, but enough to create an imbalance. Between the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century, the beret experiences its most "masculine" period. A parenthesis in its history, but a significant one.

Bourgeois women then preferred wide-brimmed hats, more "feminine" according to the codes of the time. The beret became the preserve of men of character, of those who were not afraid.

Emblematic military figures

Several historical figures reinforced this masculine image of the beret. Commander Kieffer and his green berets during World War II, General de Gaulle proudly wearing his officer's beret... These figures built a powerful iconography where the beret became the attribute of the hero, the resistance fighter, the charismatic leader.

Impossible to evoke this era without thinking of photos of De Gaulle, standing straight as an arrow under his military beret. This image marked the French collective unconscious: the beret as a symbol of masculine authority and determination.

But history never stops where we expect it to.

The artistic and intellectual revolution: return to inclusivity

The Parisian avant-garde

Montmartre, early 1900s. In dusty studios and smoky cafés, a silent revolution is brewing. Artists, men AND women, rediscover the beret. But this time, it's no longer about protecting from the cold or displaying military affiliation. The beret becomes the uniform of bohemia, the rallying sign of creators.

Suzanne Valadon, Marie Laurencin... These women artists appropriate the beret with the same casualness as their male counterparts. They make it a tool of subtle assertion: wearing the beret means claiming one's place in the art world, traditionally masculine.

This feminine reappropriation of the beret marks the beginning of its return to inclusivity. Art has no gender, why should its uniform have one?

Internationalization of the artist's beret

Pablo Picasso unknowingly became the global ambassador of the creative beret. His portraits in a beret appeared in newspapers, magazines, and exhibitions around the world. Suddenly, the entire world associated the beret with the brilliant artist, the visionary creator.

Ernest Hemingway, from his Parisian cafés, popularized the image of the writer in a beret. Joséphine Baker, for her part, brought a glamorous and feminine touch to this accessory. Her beret became an element of her unique style, a blend of Parisian sophistication and American boldness.

The beret travels, becomes international, becomes democratized. It gradually loses its exclusively French connotation to become a universal symbol of creativity.

Cinema and democratization

Cinema completes the transformation. Jean Seberg in "Breathless" becomes a feminine icon of the beret. Her boyish haircut topped with a black beret inspires millions of women around the world.

Brigitte Bardot popularizes the "French-style" beret with the international general public. Her public appearances in a beret cause a sensation and revive the fashion for this accessory among women.

Then comes Che Guevara. His starred beret definitively transforms the perception of this accessory. No more question of gender: the beret becomes political, revolutionary, universal. Men and women around the world adopt the beret in homage to Che, definitively blurring gender lines.

Sociological analysis: why this gendered ambivalence?

Dress codes and their evolution

Georg Simmel understood it well: fashion works through cycles of imitation and distinction. An accessory adopted by one group always ends up being reclaimed by another, which reinterprets it according to its own codes.

The beret perfectly illustrates this theory. Alternately masculine, feminine, unisex, it follows the pendulum movements of society. This gender fluidity makes it a fascinating case study for understanding how accessories navigate between identities.

Unlike clothing, often more fixed in their gendered assignments, accessories like the beret enjoy greater freedom of movement. They can change sides without creating a sartorial revolution.

Factors influencing perception

Several factors explain these gendered back-and-forths of the beret. Historical context plays a major role: war periods favoring masculinization, women's emancipation movements claiming equality of accessories.

Social background also influences perception. In working classes, the beret long remains a practical and inclusive accessory. The bourgeoisie, on the other hand, develops stricter codes, more clearly separating masculine and feminine accessories.

Geography also matters. In the Southwest, the birthplace of the beret, the mixed tradition endures. In Paris, fashions fluctuate more rapidly, following the whims of haute couture.

Construction of stereotypes

20th-century media sometimes freeze these perceptions into lasting stereotypes. Advertising, in particular, tends to gender products for commercial reasons. Creating two distinct markets (masculine/feminine) allows for doubling potential sales.

These marketing strategies leave traces in the collective unconscious. Some generations retain memories of berets "for men" or "for women", even when historical reality shows a completely different complexity.

Fortunately, cultural resistances always end up triumphing over artificial conventions.

The contemporary beret: toward a definitively inclusive approach

Fashion renaissance of the 1990s-2000s

The 90s mark the grand return of the beret in haute couture. Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior, Chanel: all the big names rediscover this mischievous little hat. But this time, no question of confining it to a particular gender.

Modern collections fully embrace the androgyny of the beret. It is seen on both male and female models, often in the same colors, the same materials, the same cuts. This creative reappropriation marks the definitive death of the gendered beret.

Designers intuitively understand what history has always shown: the beret transcends categories. It belongs to whoever wears it, period.

Influence of social media and street fashion

Instagram and Pinterest complete the democratization work. Thousands of influencers, men and women alike, share their beret looks. This massive visibility definitively neutralizes the last gendered reservations.

Street fashion, this fashion from the street, superbly ignores old conventions. Bloggers and fashion enthusiasts mix styles without worrying about labels. The beret becomes a tool of personal expression, free from any assignment.

The DIY (Do It Yourself) movement even encourages personalized customization. Everyone can now create THEIR beret, unique and personal, escaping any pre-established categorization.

New generations and gender fluidity

Generation Z pushes this logic of inclusion even further. For these young people born with the internet, binary masculine/feminine codes seem outdated. The beret naturally becomes an accessory of individual affirmation, beyond any consideration of gender.

This generation diverts, reinterprets, appropriates the beret with uninhibited creativity. Personalized embroidery, flashy colors, unexpected clothing combinations: everything is allowed.

The beret thus rediscovers its primary vocation as a free and universal accessory. As in its beginnings in the Pyrenean mountains, it becomes again a simple useful and beautiful object, period.

Practical guide: choosing and wearing your beret according to your morphology

Universal technical criteria

Gone are the days when you had to choose your beret based on your gender! Today, only objective and practical criteria matter. Material, first: wool for winter and tradition, cotton for mid-season and comfort, synthetic materials for small budgets and easy care.

Sizes follow simple logic: measure your head circumference at forehead level, then choose the crown diameter according to the desired effect. The wider the crown, the more the beret overflows and creates a spectacular effect.

As for shapes, the current offering knows no gender boundaries. Traditional Basque beret, revisited military model, modernized cap version: all suit everyone, according to tastes and occasions.

Harmonization with facial morphology

Again, forget the clichés! Morphological advice applies the same way, regardless of the person's gender. Round face? A slightly tilted beret elongates the silhouette. Square face? Wearing it centered softens the angles.

Oval and elongated faces can allow themselves all fantasies: worn back for a casual look, to the side for a bohemian touch, straight for a classic style.

The most common mistake? Choosing a beret that's too small out of timidity. A beret must have presence, otherwise it goes unnoticed and loses all its charm.

Non-gendered clothing association

The modern beret ignores gendered dress conventions. It pairs perfectly with a mixed casual look: raw denim jeans, knit sweater, white sneakers. This combination works just as well on a man as on a woman.

For more sophisticated occasions, the beret-coat-scarf-boots combination creates a chic and timeless ensemble. Again, no gendered rules: only the harmony of colors and materials matters.

Current urban trends even push the mixing of genres. Beret associated with sportswear, streetwear, androgynous fashion codes: everything is possible when you own your choices.

Brand focus: the current mixed offering

Traditional French manufacturers

Laulhère, this venerable house founded in 1840, has perfectly navigated the turn toward inclusivity. Their current collections no longer make gender distinctions, preferring to classify their berets by style, color and use. A modern approach that respects heritage while embracing the times.

Blancq-Olibet follows the same philosophy. This century-old manufacturer focuses on artisanal craftsmanship rather than gendered labels. Their berets are for "those who love authenticity", period.

This evolution of traditional brands clearly shows that the inclusivity of the beret is not a modern whim, but a return to the sources of this universal accessory.

Contemporary brands

Kangol has long adopted a resolutely unisex approach. This iconic British brand presents its berets without gender distinction, focusing on bold designs and colors that speak to everyone.

Independent designers push this inclusive logic even further. Their collections explore new shapes, new materials, new ways of wearing the beret. An unbridled creativity that benefits all lovers of this accessory.

E-commerce, finally, democratizes access to customization. Everyone can now order their custom-made beret, in the color and material of their choice, creating a unique accessory that escapes all categorization.

Price positioning and accessibility

The current offering covers all budgets. From entry-level berets under 20 euros to exceptional pieces costing several hundred euros: everyone can find the right fit, or rather the right beret for their head!

Value for money depends mainly on the intended use. For occasional wear, a low-end synthetic model may suffice. For daily use, it's better to invest in a quality wool piece that will age well.

Beginners can start with a classic model in black or navy wool: timeless, versatile, easily matched. With experience, they can explore other colors, other materials, other shapes.

Future perspectives: tomorrow's beret

Technical innovations and materials

The future of the beret is already taking shape in textile laboratories. Ecological fibers from recycling, responsible and sustainable materials: the next generation of berets will be greener.

Textile technologies open new possibilities: thermoregulating berets that adapt to temperature, waterproof but breathable versions, antibacterial materials for intensive use.

3D customization will soon allow the creation of berets perfectly adapted to each head's morphology. No more need to choose between standard sizes: each beret will be unique, custom-made, personal.

Evolution of mentalities

Fashion becomes definitively inclusive, and the beret naturally accompanies this evolution. Brands understand that artificially segmenting their products by gender limits their market and goes against current expectations.

This deconstruction of dress stereotypes benefits everyone. Men and women gain freedom of expression, creative possibilities, personal authenticity.

Contemporary societal movements accelerate this transformation. Gender equality, identity fluidity, social inclusion: so many values that find their translation in the evolution of fashion accessories.

Emerging trends

The future holds some surprises for the beret. Artistic collaborations multiply: designers, artists, musicians revisit this accessory with their personal vision.

Technology even invites itself into the beret! Prototypes of connected berets integrating sensors, LEDs, communication systems: science fiction becomes reality.

Paradoxically, this race for innovation is accompanied by a return to artisanal values. Local production, traditional know-how, short circuits: tomorrow's beret will be both high-tech and authentic.

The beret, symbol of liberated fashion

At the end of this journey through the centuries, one thing is clear: the beret has never really belonged to any particular gender. Its episodes of "masculinization" or "feminization" are merely parentheses in a fundamentally mixed history.

This little round cap carries within it the DNA of sartorial freedom. Born from practical necessity, enriched by art and culture, it naturally transcends social conventions. The beret reminds us that the best accessories are those that adapt to their wearer, not the other way around.

Today more than ever, choosing to wear a beret means asserting one's personality beyond stereotypes. It means claiming the right to elegance without worrying about outdated binary codes.

This evolution of the beret toward assumed inclusivity perhaps prefigures the future of fashion: more inclusive, more creative, more authentic. A fashion where everyone freely draws from the arsenal of available accessories, without being locked into artificial categories.

The beret shows us the way: that of a society where personal expression takes precedence over conventions, where beauty has no gender, where authenticity is worth all conformity.

So, man, woman, or simply human in search of style? The beret awaits you, faithful to its tradition of universal welcome. All you have to do is choose it, try it on, adopt it. And above all, wear it with the pride of those who know that true elegance has no boundaries.